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An Introduction to Puerto Vallarta Mexico |
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| PUERTO VALLARTA Yesterday and Today The history of Puerto Vallarta is truly amazing!
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In a land of Indian cultures dating back thousands of years, this 'fishing village turned resort' has almost NO history. In 1541 it was discovered by Don Pedro de Alvarado and soon forgotten. More than three hundred years later, in 1851, Guadelupe Sanchez and his family settled along the Rio Cuale river to farm. During this time, the area was known as "Puerto Las Peñas." It was not until 1918 that the town had its first mayor, who renamed the area in honour of Jalisco Governor Don Ignacio Luis Vallarta. Still, nothing more exciting than that was happening there.
About thirty-five years ago MEXICANA Airlines saw potential in the area. At that time AEROMEXICO monopolized the flights between Mexico City and Acapulco. Hoping to convert Puerto Vallarta into Guadalajara's weekend resort, MEXICANA received the franchise in 1954 and began promoting Vallarta. A few travel writers did articles on it, but it remained an out-of-the-way, quiet spot for relaxation. However all that changed in 1963 when John Houston decided to shoot the film "Night of the Iguana" in Puerto Vallarta. Along with him came Richard Burton, Ava Gardener, Elizabeth Taylor (who wasn't in the movie) and the gossip-hungry Hollywood reporters. By the time the movie was finished the romance between Liz and Dick had been celebrated universally and Puerto Vallarta had become a landmark. Droves of people came just to see where this famous couple had fallen in love but were soon charmed by the quaint, delightful resort. The droves kept coming but now because they heard what a lovely spot Puerto Vallarta was and what a unique climate it enjoyed. Even then as now the two chief attributes to this lovely resort are a) the friendliness of the people and b) the unique climate.
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| Geography & Climate
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Welcome to the land of enchantment, the beautiful "Bay of Flags", or "Bahia de Banderas" as it is known in Spanish. Geographically it is the largest Bay on the West Coast from San Francisco to Panama. It is forty miles on its circumference, and twenty between its two points, as well as twenty miles deep. The open end of the horseshoe faces West. This fact makes it a barrier for hurricanes and it was a sweet water stop for Spanish galleons on their quests northward. Indeed many local legends and rumors have it that certain merchants in digging their storage cellars unearthed doubloon treasures from pirate ships.
Certainly the area was desirous, as the climate here is unique to all of North America. The backdrop to the Bay is a wide valley whose AMÉCA River divides the state of Nayarit and Jalisco as well as delineates the transition from Mountain to Central Time zones. The North and especially the South of the perimeter of the Bay is ringed with mountains which soar to six thousand feet within a kilometer of the shoreline. This feature distorts the night time traditional subtropical climate so that while daytime temperatures reach into the high eighties, the offshore night breeze descends cool air, which is further cooled, through "adiabatic effect"(the expansion of air as it flows out of the widening valleys). What all this means is that Puerto Vallarta enjoys high daytime temperatures but pleasant, cool temperatures conducive to easier sleeping without the aid of noisy, smelly and unhealthy air-conditioning. Neither Manzanillo to the South East, nor San Blas or Mazatlan to the North West, can boast this fact, indeed it is unique. The temperature of this coastal region actually has mean temperatures in March of 73F (22C), 82 (26C) in June and September and 74F (23C) in December. However the mountain influence belies these signposts, as in effect a climatological fault exists here, which renders this area temperate but with sub tropical vegetation. These facts will not be found in any tourist publications or Government papers. Most of these agencies are selling the "country" whereas our bias is with the "Pirates" who knew a good thing and settled on this particular spot in this Bay. The effect is very local to the extent that the larger Hotels, which extend out into the valley, are un-influenced by this phenomenon. The zone affected is really from the city limits (read SHERATON HOTEL) in the North to Boca de Tomatlan. Visitors from ACAPULCO, five hundred nautical miles south, remark most often on this desirable trait of this the most beautiful Pearl of the Pacific resort. Vallarta is situated on the Western-most end of the Central Time zone. Across the AMÉCA river in the state of NAYARIT (where now two of the Golf Clubs are, with two more are under construction and yet two more are in the planning stage), is Mountain Time. The airport is oriented parallel and south of the AMÉCA River, perpendicular to the beach so that the noisy jets take-off West (over the adjacent Nuevo Vallarta and Marina area) towards the sea. This means that the sunsets, which are magnificent, see the sun sinking into the sea justifying the boast that a 'villa on the hill' is the way to live. The ride into town is a brief 4 miles and one passes the many grand hotels known as "tourist tanks"...to the Villa crowds. Apart from the lush growth and profusion of Bougainvillea the most startling feature of "PEE VEE" is the cobblestone streets. The whole municipal area is made of cobblestone or interlocking bricks with some ordinary pavement on the arteries. In recent years, now that the famous "drenaje" (sewer pipes) have finally been laid, the Federal Government awarded Vallarta, along with the honour of being the cleanest City in Mexico three years running, a grant to retain the cobblestone look. The compromise to allow a permanent type road surface with the "cobblestone look" was achieved with a great deal of controversy but I frankly think they did a great job. The tradeoff is we can no longer tolerate drunk driving, as the speeds on these new roads are not restricted to 12 KM/hr as before. Alas, progress. Indeed the papers are full of accidents that we didn't have in the past. Progress is relentless and does carry a cost. One great costs is that I have to wait for one or two days a year now to get an updated "view shot" for our brochure as the haze and pollution; as with any valley facing the sea, (Vancouver & Los Angeles for example), is considerable. Diesel buses belch their sulphurous fumes into the second floor restaurants, which combat the onslaught with fans cleverly pointed outwards. Oh for the day when I first arrived. There were but 45 cars in the entire town! Progress is double edged as we approach the millennium. Remember the jokes about the "water in MEXICO". Well consider that now it's very coveted as its a mountain stream that cascades down from 6000 feet to be collected under 80 feet of gravel and pumped to several reservoirs (our feed at CASA ANITA is from a covered reservoir). Check this revelation. Since 1993 the city water drawn from the taps in Puerto Vallarta has been deemed potable. Interestingly enough the cruise ships now take on water here in deference to Los Angeles I've been told. How's that for revenge, and not MONTEZUMAS. Welcome to the NEW MILENIUM... Question everything and everyone. Fifteen years ago, when the water myth was popular, who would have suggested that we'd shop phone companies every month also. Guadalajara to the East and situated on the plain formed by the Sierra Madre Occidental boasts, along with its thinner air (5000-ft altitude), the best climate in North America. Puerto Vallarta boasts the best coastal climate, or is a close second I reckon. Indeed Puerto Vallarta is now ranked (January 1999) the sixth most popular destination in the World and the first Latin American destination while enjoying the position of the forth most popular beach destination in the world. I have often mused about the chance of the Spaniards in passing this port by for the mosquito-infested port of San Blas? Had the important West Coast outpost of San Blas been Puerto Vallarta or Las Peines as it was called at the time; North America may well have been totally Spanish-speaking now, a colony of Spain! Far fetched you say, well consider the type of correspondence that would emanate from San Blas if you were the Intendant, cursing the mosquitoes and swatting them as you wrote your reports to send back to SPAIN (...the amount of gold found when juxtaposed to the incredible living conditions one has to endure make this expedition less attractive). Or consider the same report filed from Las Peines..... clean fresh water in a large sheltered Bay with easy escape in the face of a superior force attack and a climate that is exemplary with no flying insects make this an ideal outpost to launch the predestined incursions north to the area known as California and Oregon. Abundant game and minerals close at hand with friendly natives most willing to gather and carry materials to our barques.... Consider this and it doesn't seem so far fetched now does it? Therefore don't wonder why this sleepy fishing village has been propelled to such eminence so quickly. The answer is simple and two fold, in this order. A) The climate, and B) the friendliness of the people. (Remember this, it's on the exam for sure) The name Puerto (port) and Vallarta(Ignacio Vallarta a famous Mexican GOVERNOR) are a little hard to pronounce. Consequently, many refer to Puerto Vallarta as PEE VEE but these are tourists, who can be forgiven. Unfortunately many of resident types also do this but they who haven't made the effort to learn the language are more ignorant than they give themselves credit for. God if they knew what they're missing. Never have I heard a Mexican call it PEEVEE. Similarly one hears of L.A. and San Fran. but not usually by the genuine residents. Actually Spanish is a very simple language where every letter and hence syllable is pronounced as it sounds with the exception of double "LL" (and therefore the problem) which is pronounced "Y". It follows then that one should say PWHERE-TOE ...VYE-YARR-TA. Want to try Jalisco? Its "Halisco". Actually besides the J, which is pronounced like "H", the H is not pronounced. Remember that and you're half way there. It is a genuine sign of respect to attempt to speak the native tongue if even a word or two. It may get you that shawl a few pesos cheaper, or at the very least, reward you with a pearly, tortilla-tooth smile. Really, you know many Spanish words already but don't think of them. Tortilla is one, Taco is another, and how about Adios,...vaya con Dios? (Go with God). When you think about it, you'd be surprised...Buenos Aires the capital of Argentina means GOOD AIR so how about Buenos dias or buenas noches (good day, and good night). In the appendix we have supplied some key phrases, which if you make the effort to try, will increase your enjoyment of this and other vacations. The virus is in the language and it's highly contagious and euphoric. To catch it, all you have to do is reply "si" to the question "Habla usted Espanol?". See the appendix for further idioms etc.
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| Upon Your Arrival
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Enough, you are on vacation to enjoy and so you shall. Upon arrival at the Puerto Vallarta airport and with any luck successfully retrieving your luggage, you will be gently herded towards the waiting lineup of timeshare & taxi hustlers. Now is when you will reflect on having refused to buy the MEX-DEV transfers. The Government-licensed airport minibuses (Volkswagen vans) vie with another company (who we like and deal with) called AEROMOVIL who for a nominal fee which is PER PERSON take you to the MEX-DEV dwelling that has been selected, once you show him the appropriate voucher/map. You have to ask for CASA ANITA/CORONA del MAR. Careful, the tariff can vary considerably what with "colectivos" and "directos" and with no pesos and no change it will likely end up costing you more.
If you have a MEX-DEV voucher, wave it madly when you exit the customs area. We colored it brightly and made it big to discourage the 'hustlers' and so it will be quickly recognized by our taxi company drivers who will help you with your bags and know exactly where you're going without further discussion. You simply hand it to the AEROMOVIL driver and presto. Careful that you get an AEROMOVIL driver. This shouldn't be a problem as the timeshare hustlers all know MEX-DEV's philosophy regarding time share and will likely chase more naive game. As for the 'other cab company' scooping our clients, they've been stiffed at our office enough times to leave you alone and even direct you to the proper drivers. As a fall back, all the info as to where he is to take you is on the voucher in Spanish so no hassle explaining the address which is "kilimetro cero punto cinco Carretera Barra de Navidad CASA ANITA/CORONA del MAR numero seis cero uno, a la mano izquierda de la misma carretera. Tipping is optional. Good luck and trust my advice - if you haven't got the transfers and you aren't on board the aircraft yet call 1-866-880-5920 quickly and we'll fax you transfers. Faxed copies won't be coloured so you may have to bonk a timeshare salesman on the head and wrestle your way through to an AEROMOVIL driver but at least you won't have to figure exchange rates etc. while youre still a neophyte. You can settle up with the front desk at check in and save a lot of hassle as well as money. At least this way you know what you are paying. In the other case it's well.....? Once you arrive at CASA ANITA/CORONA del MAR and have checked in and been introduced to your suite, the following will happen. "WOW what a view....! This is the first time I've seen a property live up to the brochure...". Once you finish gawking out from the balcony and you start exploring the suite, you will find a "hospitality package" in the fridge, (that is if you've booked a week or more). In the HOSPITALITY package you will find several items in both the refrigerator and dwelling itself. Remember that this food, grog and greeting service (even this guide) is free or built in, so for those of you who are still not convinced you made the best deal in accommodation in Vallarta, consider this, especially when you waste your valuable vacation time comparing, even after the fact. Don't say you don't do it, I know you do, so to avoid embarrassment (I don't like being embarrassed either), we made sure we ARE the best value. NOT the CHEAPEST (most people ask for this but we've translated this to mean VALUE for MONEY), but the BEST. Our Hospitality package therefore (built into the package rates) is for food and liquor and includes the fee for shopping and waiting to greet you and conduct an in depth briefing which embraces currency, how to this... and how to that... where the best shrimps can be found and 15 minutes at least of valuable current info that isn't found in this here Gyde. Yes we know you don't spell guide like that. Up to date info is covered at the briefing as well as mis-information that has changed since printing. Welcome to the new millenium, where everything you know should be re-visited every three months.(Remember the Phone Company) Besides instructing you in the systems, lights, keys, etc. Our "greeter" (an owner/family member) will answer your questions in any of three languages,(make sure you study your phrases) give you your key for which we exact a deposit (redeemable upon checking out) and make sure that you are properly installed. Depending on your arrival time we give you an interval to freshen up from travelling and change into more comfortable attire. Once you have settled in, one of us will sit down with you and explain the many services of MEX-DEV which you will undoubtedly wish to avail yourself. For instance order a case of CORONA (20 bottles) for around $10 USD. Some clients have said that 20% of what we offer is information and that this is invaluable, so pay attention and I guarantee you will save $$$ from the information gleaned in this exchange. We even have a binder with all the menus from local popular eateries on hand which we urge you to look through and even put your comments against menu items to enhance this for future guests and to help you decide on where to dine. (Please note that these services apply only to the ANITA PROPERTIES with the SONIA or long term dwellings being void of many of these features. Clarify this by asking your agent, or better still come over to Casa Anita especially Wednesday evenings, (to spool up'). The hospitality package contains but one soft drink and one cerveza only per person, you might want to add to the transportation voucher, when you call 1-866-880-5920, a request for a case of beer (around $10 USD. for 20 Coronas) delivered into your fridge. You can settle up for this as well after the briefing where if you leave an imprint of your credit card you can charge pop, beer, tours etc. and settle up at weeks end. Sure better than ordering a warm case at the briefing and maybe not getting it delivered until the next day due to staff leaving at 17:00hrs. In any case it definitely beats getting "fiscally electrocuted" by the mini bars prevalent in the tourist tank hotels. All electrical appliances such as hair dryers will work as they do at home (110V-120V 60 cycle). Many of the plugs came from Canadian Tire or Thunderbird Electric so the wide spade plugs will work here. The stoves and hot water are run on butane (like propane but it freezes at a higher temperature - not a problem here - and its cheaper). It has the safety of a distinct odour if left on, to warn of danger. We have defeated the pilot lights as cross ventilation and ceiling fans cause them to go out. Many of the suites have lighters or matches for this chore. The ovens can be tricky so refer to the instruction sheet in each apartment or ask someone if you're not familiar. It is worth learning how though, as no breakfast is complete without buttered "bolillos" (Mexican croissants ...sorry Charles), toasted in the broiler section under the oven. (Note some stoves have only the oven and no broiler. It will work in the main oven, however watch them closely as you can burn them easily.) Security from cat burglars is provided in the form of wrought iron grills over windows but patio doors and entrance doors should be locked when going out and while sleeping. Cameras and jewelry should be at least put out of sight or better still placed in the iron door lockup for which you brought a padlock. (We rent them if you forgot to bring one). Another idea is to carry valuables with you if youre concerned to that point, although consider that that poses other problems. See the appendix about general security measures. One thing to consider is that some items can be "fished" out through the wrought iron if left conveniently on counters. Common sense is of course the byword. The innkeepers act is quite clear on whose responsibility it is to protect your belongings.... yours. Our staff is impeccably trustworthy and most are long term employees. Guests and the other ninety million inhabitants are another matter. It IS safe to walk about in the night, indeed there is a lively night life within walking distance of all MEX-DEV properties. Read on.
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